A recent study published in the BMJ has revealed the increase in average wine glass sizes over time, with a near seven fold increase since the 1700s and a particularly sharp rise since the 1990s.
The average glass size grew from 66ml in the 1700s to 449ml today. The current near half litre average glass capacity reflects the 250ml 'large' wine serving popularised in recent decades, demoting the former 'large' 175ml to a medium and making the 125ml standard serving of old appear rather paltry. The study points out that 250 ml equates to a third of a standard bottle of wine and typically over a fifth of the weekly recommended guidelines.
Whilst the researchers highlight the growth in glass sizes cannot be directly attributed to longer term rises in consumption, wine has been a key driver whilst previous research has demonstrated larger glasses can increase consumption (although similar effects realting to plate size and eating has been suggested to be more complicated). Furthermore, the average strength of wine has been increasing in recent decades, mainly attributed to increasing availability of new world wines, production methods and temperature rises.
125ml: another licensing law anomoly?
Notably, licensing changes were introduced in 2014 making it a legal requirement for pubs, bars and other on-trade premises to offer and highlight the availability of 125ml measures. The law also requires that where customers do not specify a size, they must be 'made aware of the range of measures available' either 'verbally or by ensuring they have seen the printed materials'. Wider concerns about the suitability and implementation of current licensing legislation aside, the extent of adherence or even awareness of the requirement to offer and promote 125 measures across the on-trade is arguably questionable.
Wine appreciation nation?
Media reports though included arguments to counter notions that such changes may be deliberate attempts conceived to get the nation drinking more, and indeed the study notes that a combination of 'price, technology, societal wealth, and wine appreciation' may be responsible. Whilst some in the wine industry have spoken in favour of a return to smaller glasses, Miles Beale of the Wine and Spirit Trade Association, told the BBC: 'red wine, for example, is served in a larger glass to allow it to breathe, something which perhaps wasn't a priority 300 years ago'.
The proportion of British wine drinkers concerned with whether their glass will allow ther wine to breathe is still likely to be rather limited. Despite some apparent increase in wine appreciation, or at least a trend in 'premiumisation', Britain may still be generally regarded by producers as 'a great market if you want to get rid of bin ends' or a market dominated by 'cheap, crappy wine'. Indeed despite post-Brexit price increases, the average price paid for an off-trade bottle of wine remains at £5.56 despite a value for money 'sweet spot' for quality and price often reported as being closer to £10. But while most might agree that their drinking is driven mainly by social or mood enhancement motives above a desire to appreciate the aromas or structure of a wine, disentangling the reported pleasurable effects of drinking from factors such as taste preferences is a complex science.
From a policy perspective, 'nudges' within drinking environments that may shape consumption may be considered an important part of the intervention mix sought to reduce harmful drinking. Whilst headline policy issues such as pricing and availability will continue to remain the key issues, the other possible influences on drinking behaviours including glass size, labelling, strength and other influences will continue to be the subject of further research and debate.
Comments